By admin | January 18, 2010
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
This Distressed denim shirt features deep bias pleats on the sleeves and pocket.
Its slightly rumpled look is entirely intentional.
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SEWING NOTES: This shirt is interfaced with PRO-WEFT Fusible,
a unique professionally quality interfacing found exclusively at ~Fashion Sewing Supply~
____________________________
Adding a pleat to any pattern piece is very easy
when you use this method:
1. Using the any pattern paper you like, fold a pleat. I folded a 1″ pleat.
2. Just place your pattern piece on top of the pleated paper, with the pleat where you want it to be on your garment. In this case, I placed my pattern so that the pleat (the pre-folded paper) would be on the bias, then I merely cut out my “new” sleeve pattern.
3. This is what my sleeve looked like cut from the fabric. I took the photo after the upper pleat fold was pressed, so you could more easily see how the pleat is formed.
4. This photo (#4) shows the completed pleat, with the folds edge-stitched. In this photo, as viewed from the right side, only the upper fold’s edge-stitching is visible. The under-fold (back side) of the pleat is edge-stitched too. I like to edge-stitch pleats on shirts that I design not only because it is a nice decorative detail, but also because it makes pressing the shirt much easier after it has been laundered.
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How to Control a Pleat…Invisibly !
When there is a bias or horizontal pleat on a garment, the weight of the fabric below the pleat will tend to pull it down, and the pleat will sag and gape open. When the pleats are small and/or the fabric is lightweight, this is often not a problem. However, with pleat depths of one inch or more on medium or heavy fabric, this sagging can be quite an ugly problem. But as you can see in the photo of the finished shirt (above), the deep pleat is not gaping or sagging. That is because the pleats have been “controlled”, by span-stitching done on the under-fold of the pleat (back side), as shown in this next photo–
To control this bias pleat, I made a series of 3 wide “V” shaped stitch spans on the inner pleat fold (that I highlighted in blue pencil so that you can more easily see them). Each extend from the edge of the pleat to within 1/4″ of the first pleat fold. While it may be a little distracting to understand, if you make up a quick sample of any pleat from scrap fabric, and do this “V” stitching as shown, it will become clear how it works to control the pleat. Please note that these pleats are NOT functional pleats..they are decorative only. So restricting how much they are allowed to open will make no functional difference at all. As you can see from the photo of the completed shirt, the pleats still appear to be quite deep. They are just “not allowed” to gape open because of this inner, invisible/hidden stitching.
By admin | January 13, 2010
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
Oh how I wish I had better news….
The tracing of the pattern was uneventful , as you would expect. Cutting the fabric (oxford cloth), was equally uneventful. The good news is that all the pieces of the shirt fit together beautifully, quite easy to sew…even with the unusual seam allowance widths. However, that said, I have sewn hundreds of shirts over my many years as a Shirt-maker. Perhaps some less experienced sew-ers would need to constantly refer back to the pattern and sewing diagrams to understand some of the sewing methods. For instance, these patterns are drafted to use a version of the felled-seam technique that I showed you last summer in this post,
Felled Seam Technique.
Now, the not so good news. While some aspects of the way the shirt fit were happy surprises, some important ones were not. Take a look at the shirt muslin from the front–
Before I go any further, it’s plain to see that I only did a very light pressing of this fitting garment…a full press was not necessary for me to evaluate any broad fitting issues. Had the garment fit better, I would have given it a proper press and done another fitting. This shirt is a size X-large, straight from the tracing, without any changes. Now a few words about my ever patient model. Roger is 6′ tall, about 178 pounds, and wears a size 15-1/2 neck, 34-35 sleeve sized shirt “off the shelf” from a store. He has a long torso.
Interestingly, the shirt fit perfectly at the neck, and the shoulder length was good. The fit through the chest was close, but with enough ease for him to reach forward and back without straining the fabric. Also, the sleeves were a perfect length. They may look long in the photo, but that is because I forgot to trim the seam allowance from the single-layer cuff…sorry about that. But take my word for it, the sleeve length is perfect.
But unfortunately that is where “perfect” ends. As you can see in the photo above, there is a drag line at the armscye, and the sleeve is twisting. It was twisting more before I fiddled with a a bit for the first photo. But my fiddling was futile (lol), as you can see in this next photo, showing the shirt from the back.
Talk about major fit issues ! ..and such a shame when the neck fits so well…sigh. First of all, the yoke is not deep enough for a man of Roger’s height, as you can see from the drag lines. The sleeve is twisting because the armscye is not deep enough, and the curve of the armsyce is wrong for the width of Roger’s upper back.
These problems can be resolved by redrafting the yoke and reshaping the armscye, redrafting the sleeve to reflect those changes, and then making more fitting muslins to check the changes. Am I going to bother doing that? No. Why? Because I already have several shirt drafts that fit him perfectly. I also will not use this book to make shirts for my clients…unless they are very slight men. And even then, quite frankly it is easier for me to just hand-draft a pattern from scratch using their measurements.
What I might do is use some of the collar-stands, collars, cuffs, and pockets from this book, altering them a bit for size to use on my hand-drafted styles. But again, it is easier to draft my own than to “retro-fit” another designer’s draft. And after comparing the collar style, stand, cuff, etc options in this book to David Coffin’s book “Shirtmaking”…well, if you have David’s book there really is nothing much new to be found in this Japanese book.
So…should you buy this book? Well, I bought it because I am a collector of books on menswear pattern-making. Perhaps if I read Japanese, I would be able to get more from this book. The sewing-sequence diagrams are good, but a bit confusing since for 20+ years I’ve been professionally constructing shirts differently. There are no “A-Hah!” moments regarding collar construction, etc, in this book. So for me, it’s just nice to have among my collection of menswear sewing books. However it’s not one I am likely to use often, if ever again. No doubt others who have this book will have different opinions. But for me this book will likely remain a novelty and nothing more…it’s going back on the bookshelf as soon as I finish editing this post.
By admin | January 13, 2010
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
I finally have time to make a shirt from this book, as I first mentioned several weeks ago in these 2 previous posts-
Having just spent an hour studying the dizzying sheet of traceable patterns and comparing them to various American shirt drafts, I have made some discoveries. First of all, the Japanese Extra-large size in this book seems to compare to a close-fitting 15/15-1/2 neck Medium size American draft. Secondly, the seam allowances vary in width from a bit less than 1 cm to about 1.5 cm. By studying the drafts and the very precise sewing instruction diagrams, these variances eliminate the trimming we are used to doing after stitching when using American patterns. The seam allowances of these patterns may frustrate me a little bit, because when I draft my own patterns I use different seam allowance measurements. In fact, my first inclination was to just trace the pieces on the stitching line, and add on my own seam allowances. However, I am going to trace these “as is”, so I can truly evaluate the entire sewing method of this book.
Here is the Extra-Large Japanese Yoke laid over a Medium Yoke from an American pattern that fits a bit loosely. I am encouraged that the Japanese draft has the same shoulder slope as the American pattern, and that it is only scant 1/2″ shorter in the shoulder length….because when this American pattern is sewn, the shoulders drop slightly. The back width of the Japanese pattern is almost exactly the same as the American pattern at the point where the bottom of the Yoke meets the Shirt-Back. Note that the Japanese yoke has a center-back seam, and the American pattern does not. That is why you see the white Japanese Yoke pattern extending beyond the American Yoke pattern at Center-Back.
So here is my plan: Within the next day or so, I plan to trace an Extra-Large size pattern, then cut and stitch together a quick “fitting” muslin. That way I can give you accurate “finished” measurements of the neck-edge, body circumference, and sleeve length. If the draft is true and accurate (if all the parts fit together well), I’ll be going on to make a wearable shirt…along with showing you how to enlarge the pattern for bigger sizes. If not, well there are some nifty collar and cuff shapes that I can re-size and use for my hand-drafted patterns, so the purchase of the book will not be a total loss. But now, I am going to start to trace the pattern then sew the muslin…with a positive attitude!
By admin | January 6, 2010
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
I made this velour tunic for my niece this morning.
It is a variation of an Ottobre Design pattern (from issue 4-2006, #25),
and the pattern already included pieces for the flounces.
However, you can easily add a flounce to any pattern by drafting it yourself !
I’ll be using a sleeve pattern that includes seam allowances in this example of how to draft a flounce. First, make a copy of the sleeve pattern to which you will be adding the flounce. Next decide how wide you want the flounce to be, and shorten the pattern from the bottom by that amount then ADD on a 1/4-inch. This extra 1/4-inch is what you’ll need to sew the flounce to the bottom of the sleeve. Now, using the newly shortened bottom of the sleeve as a guide, draw a simple rectangle that measures the length of the sleeve bottom by the width of the flounce you want PLUS a 1/2-inch (This rectangle will become your flounce pattern after some manipulation). Again, this extra 1/2-inch is what you’ll need to sew the flounce to the sleeve with 1/4-inch left-over to hem the flounce itself. The photo below shows these steps already completed. It may sound a little complicated, but all that’s been done so far is to…
Shorten the sleeve length and add a seam allowance to it. Make a rectangle and add a seam and hem allowance to it.
Now take your rectangular piece, and draw lines on it that are about an inch apart, as shown below–
Next, cut along these lines, leaving a “hinge” of uncut paper along the top edge like this–
Place this slashed piece on top of another larger piece of blank paper. Now spread the slashes apart by about 1/4-inch, holding them down with tape as you go, as shown below-
Now trace over your newly formed flounce pattern, truing the curves as you go. Now we have a fast and easy flounce pattern…with the seam and hem allowances included…ready to add some design flair to the bottom of a sleeve !
Of course, you can repeat the same steps to add a flounce to any edge, like the bodice hem in the sewn example of the velour tunic at the beginning of this tutorial.
By Fashion Expert | December 22, 2009
Your clothing and grooming affect the way you think, feel, behave, and the way others react or respond to you. A positive personal appearance allows you to think more positively about yourself and other people. You can’t afford to feel self-conscious or full of self-doubt. A positive personal appearance is a fast, effective way to boost self-confidence and overcome anxiety regarding ability or acceptance. When you appear attractively dressed and groomed you feel more comfortable, confident, and productive.
An image consultant provides image management services that help individuals understand the impact that their appearance communicates to themselves and others. Your appearance is the only thing immediately obvious to other people, you can’t hide it. If you want to change your life or the relationships in it, you need to do an honest assessment of yourself and the image your project. Don’t hold yourself back and take the necessary measures to project a powerful personal appearance!
By Fashion Expert | December 22, 2009
The eco-friendly trend is important to the fashion world because it is helping to preserve the environment we live in. There’s a growing concern about toxicity from PBDEs (flame retardants) and other chemicals in clothing and products, organic and renewable materials, such as bamboo, silk, and linen are becoming more admired as alternatives to conventional fibers, produced with pesticides, herbicides and defoliates.
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There are a growing number of designers and fashion consultants paying attention to this development and expressing it in their current and future fashion shows and client’s wish lists. Calvin Klein produced a hemp-based pantsuit for the “Future Fashion” show, while Michael Kors designed a dress made of recycled cashmere, and Donatella Versace made a hemp-silk gown. A designer named John Patrick launched “Organic” in 2004, when eco-fashion wasn’t a well known trend. His designs consist of sophisticated looking embroidered coats of organic Vermont wool, recycled silk scarves, vegetable tanned leather jackets and eyelet dresses from recycled cotton. Raina Byler used hemp and soy-cotton blends when she began her 2005 clothing line. Spring 2005 of New York’s fashion week saw big designers such as Oscar de la Renta present apparel made from corn, bamboo, and organic cotton. A new line by Linda Loudermilk consisted of fanciful couture made from organic materials like recycled bottle caps and wood.
Hemp has been around for decades and is part of the eco-fashion world. It can be used to replace many potentially harmful products, such as tree paper (the process of which uses bleaches and other toxic chemicals, apart from contributing to deforestation), cosmetics (which often contain synthetic oils that can clog pores and provide little nutritional content for the skin), plastics (which are petroleum based and cannot decompose), and more. The industrial hemp textile market is increasing quickly with new interesting fabrics being developed every year.
By admin | December 21, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
Much of the 14″ of snow that fell last week has melted, but we still have enough (with more falling) to make for a pleasant winter landscape. I just love snow ! …but perhaps that is because Roger does all the shoveling 
This is the view from my front door, taken this morning as more snow was softly falling…
This is the view from my side door. The pine trees are so tall, there was no way to get their tops into the photo. Oh, those thin “sticks” you see are driveway markers. We need them so that when several inches of snow falls, we know where the driveway is!
Now about sewing. There hasn’t been much of that going on during the past week or so. The sale we had at Fashion Sewing Supply generated 100’s of orders, which we are still diligently cutting and packing. The last packages will be going out in a day or so. For those of you who ordered…as always, thanks again for shopping with us. Your patronage is more appreciated than you can possibly know.
Another situation that has stopped me from sewing and bogging as much as I would like to, is a lingering injury to my hip. I am going through some painful treatments, and it is just not possible for me to accomplish everything I need or would like to do. So please bear with me….I’ll be back with more sewing information as soon as possible!
Oh…one more thing. If you “do” Facebook, feel free to add me as a friend. I am there as Pamela Erny.
Often my quick sewing projects that do not warrant a full blog post end up on Facebook, rather then here 
By admin | November 30, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
First…Since many wondered what I’d be making with that luscious striped Japanese knit (shown in a previous post) , you’ll see it pictured above, made into theHotPatterns Riviera AnnisetteTop . The Riviera Annisette Top has gathered sleeves, but I chose to alter the sleeve pattern and make long plain sleeves instead. Why? I just felt that there was enough interest in the fabric itself, and didn’t want to muddy it up with more details.
Now to begin this discussion of gathered sleeve caps, take a look at the blue top, above. It has gathered sleeves that are very subtle. When you make a top, dress or blouse with sleeve cap gathers, you have a choice to make them “puffed” or simply gathered into soft folds. It’s all about the way the sleeve cap seam allowances are pressed.
When the seam allowances are pressed towards the sleeve, you have puffy sleeves like the example to the right. In my opinion, puffy sleeves are usually better suited to the very young…but to each her own
Pressing the seam allowances towards the “body” (neckline) of the garment, results in sleeve cap gathers that lay “flatter”, and present more subtle folds. It’s a small detail, but one that is usually kinder to a mature figure.
Directing the seam allowances of gathers one way or the other can make a difference in other areas of a garment. For instance, pressing the seam allowance of a gathered skirt of a dress “up” towards the bodice will encourage the gathers to lay more flat, in smooth folds. Pressing those same gathers “down” (towards the hem) , will encourage the gathers to puff-up. It’s all about the look you prefer…and now you know you have a choice.
Sewing Notes: Yokes on both of the tops shown interfaced with PRO-SHEER ELEGANCE Fusible Interfacing from ~FASHION SEWING SUPPLY~
By admin | November 22, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
Prompted by the fact that I have almost nothing “nice” to wear this season, I managed to get some sewing done this week. Since I can only stand for limited amounts of time because of my injury, tracing new patterns is not an option for me for a while. So I used 2 of my tried and true patterns, HotPatterns Weekender Sunshine Top, and HotPatterns Metropolitan GoodTimes TopThe gray Weekender Sunshine Top, shown above, is made from a luscious wool/cashmere blend sweater knit. I made the neckband a little wider and lengthened the short sleeves to full length. I am thrilled with the way it turned out..it feels so luxurious! If you have this pattern, do try it with long sleeves for the fall/winter. If you don’t have this pattern, it’s really worth a try. It’s so flattering..makes your waist look tiny and that’s always a good thing! I made this style several times last spring, and wrote a step-by-step tutorial about how to sew it. It can be found HERE.
of the Metropolitan GoodTimes Top. The olive green version is made from a wool/cashmere blend sweater knit. The blue print version is made from cotton/lycra jersey, and features shirred sleeves. I am so happy to have some nice new tops…now I just have to muster up enough energy to sew a few more tops, some slacks, and I’ll be all set for this season…maybe
Sewing Notes: The band and yokes on all the tops are interfaced with Pro-Sheer Elegance Fusible Interfacing. The Sweater Knit yardage has been in my ’stash’ for a long time, it was from
Baer Fabrics, now out of business.
The Cotton/Lycra Jersey is from Fabric.com.
The Cotton/Lycra Jersey is from Fabric.com.
By admin | November 21, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
Oh…I just love when the UPS guy delivers
a box of beautiful fabrics!
Last week while browsing the Gorgeous Fabrics I just could not resist..and treated myself to some new goodies. The 2 striped pieces that you see are Japanese novelty knits that have a wonderful ribbed texture. And since they have stretch in both directions, design options abound. The vanilla chenille knit is so dreamy soft, and the olive stretch twill coordinates with both Japanese knits. Now can I tell you about the blue Stretch Denim? OMGosh this has to be the nicest denim/lycra blend I’ve ever purchased! The face is absolutely smooth, with none of the annoying slubs found with most stretch denims. Even after washing it’s as smooth as can be. I am so glad I bought enough to make 2 pairs of jeans..one pair that will fit me now while I am carrying extra water weight from medication I have to take for a while..and another for when I am back to normal The quality of this denim is so nice, I may have to go back and get some more….
By admin | November 16, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
There has been some chat on various sewing lists and forums lately about tracing patterns and adding seam allowances to them, so here is a repeat of a tutorial I wrote several months ago that some of you may have missed and may find helpful…
For those of us who draft our own patterns, or trace them from the various pattern magazines, here’s an easy way to add seam allowances–
It’s very simple…and while not a new concept, I do it a bit differently.
The method is basic:
Add the seam allowance to the pattern by stitching around the pattern using an un-threaded needle the desired distance from the sewing line.
What’s different about the way I do it?
Well…I have discovered that by using a large Wing Needle, and a very close stitch (.5-1), the excess pattern paper just peels off. No need to cut out the pattern!
Some more information–
I run the pattern through the machine…the traced stitching line of the pattern on the RIGHT….making sure the stitching line of the pattern is on the seam allowance I want. Thus, the needle holes are punched to the left of the stitching line, adding the seam allowance.
I can see through the pattern paper easily enough to be able to run the marked stitching line exactly on the 1/4″, 3/8″, or 5/8″ inch line that is marked on the bed of my machine. If I can’t see through the paper easily, I just use a post-it or piece of blue “painter’s tape” along the desired depth of seam allowance I want to add.
After getting a few questions…here are some additional pictures that hopefully will make this process more clear:
1. Mark the desired seam allowance with painter’s tape to make it visible under the pattern to which you are adding allowances–
2. The blue line on the paper (shown below) is the traced pattern line. Run it along the desired depth of seam allowance you want to add (see depth of seam allowance pic above), using a wing needle. This punches holes in the pattern paper, adding the seam allowance (the distance from the needle to the blue traced line is the added seam allowance)–
By alanjohn87 | November 16, 2009
Welcome to the $99 Arena of DressTailor.com!
Are you looking for a perfect evening dress? A custom made dress by your tailor should be the best solution. However, the traditional tailoring process could be troublesome, lengthy and costly. Now, at DressTailor.com, you can enjoy personal tailoring service online. The steps are very simple:
100% Fit = US$99
The professional tailors of DressTailor.com will make you a perfect fit evening dress with high quality fabrics, at an incredible low price of $99. The dress will be made according to your body measurements. You can choose the color you like. You can choose any styles, without modification, from our site. We pass the savings from the simplified order processing to you. We even offer quantity discounts if you order more than one dress.
By Stat Key | November 16, 2009
A designer professor once told me that the key to a good design was innovating on an existing one. Kinda like improvising and adding a new dimension to the product. Take the casestudy of keys; until now the focus has been improving the locking mechanism and safety features. I don’t think many (or any) have considered re-designing the styling of a key per se. Uber-cool transportation designer Greg has. His SUPER COOL Designer STAT KEYS collection are stylized blank keys that can be cut to fit majority of American locks and Kwikset locks.
Keys were handed out at the Emmy Awards, Virgin Unite, and will be in this months Better Homes and Gardens Magazine featured in the article.
Designer: Gregory Scott Stoermer
-Yanko Design
http://www.statkey.com
By Fashion Expert | November 3, 2009
Our personal image consultants have nailed down the top fashion fopauxs from stuffed animals to stuffed bras. Outrages style is something to be handled with care and precision, just ask any Diva of the 20th century. The 21st century presents a new era of post-diva disaster that can be called anything but chic.
#1. Lady Gaga - her appearance is often offensive and disgusting yet somehow she believes her image is wearable art. You be the judge…
To be fair, she does have better days or so we think…
#2. Hello Kitty coat
#3. X-Tinas triumph to fame
By admin | October 30, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
I am so happy that HotPatterns has re-introduced my all time favorite ladies shirt pattern, The Plain and Simple Princess Shirt. I have made this shirt so many times, both for myself and for gifts and just love how versatile it is.
The HotPatterns folks say this style has been re-fitted with a better sleeve, re-graded to their multisize charts and now comes with new instructions and diagrams.
Frankly, I can’t imagine this pattern getting any better, and I am really looking forward to trying the new version! In the meantime, here is one of many I have made….my favorite HotPatterns Princess Shirt made from buttery soft plum Ultrasuede.
To follow my step-by-step tutorial about sewing the classic collar and lapel of this shirt….
Click HERE for Part One
Click HERE for Part Two
By admin | October 30, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
I think we all try to keep our interfacing perfectly folded in a drawer or neatly rolled on tubes. But how many times have you reached for a piece of interfacing only to find a wrinkled mess like this…
Probably like me, more than once.
Luckily there is an easy fix, and it starts at your grocery store. Or perhaps you already have it in your pantry… Parchment Paper!
First, roll out a length of parchment paper onto your ironing board or other pressing surface.
Next, Place your wrinkled interfacing GLUE SIDE DOWN onto the Parchment Paper. Then with your DRY iron set on on a LOW setting (silk/synthetic), slowly slide the warm iron over the wrinkles.
You will see the wrinkles disappear as you slowly move the iron.
The interfacing does not stick to the slippery parchment paper at all, and you can move the next section of wrinkled interfacing onto the paper easily. And since the iron is set below the temperature needed to melt the fusible resin, it is not adversely affected at all.
When you are finished, your once wrinkled interfacing is perfectly flat and smooth, and ready to fuse to your fabric!
When you are finished, your once wrinkled interfacing is perfectly flat and smooth, and ready to fuse to your fabric!
By Fashion Expert | October 28, 2009
Keep it Simple!
Create an effortless beauty routine for both day and night.
Lately, it’s all the rage with cosmetic companies to add multiple steps to your daily beauty routine. On a single visit to a cosmetic counter you may leave completely befuddled at all the products you are told you “need” in order to achieve beauty. If you are not being photographed every day, you do not need to look runway ready for a routine office meeting or a trip to the grocery store. Here are some tips on how to create a day look and an evening look with little effort from our female makeover experts.
Subtle Make-up Ideas for Daytime:
Focus on the areas of your face that will maximize your appearance to create a simple morning make-up routine. Areas of your face to emphasize are: skin, brows, cheeks, lashes and lips. Find products that are easy to use, last through the day, and streamline your morning routine.
Products to try:
Benefit’s Benetint: This product works great on both lips and cheeks. Using a cotton swab to apply, dab a drop on your cheeks and blend with your finger tips until you have a subtle hint of color. For the lips, layering is suggested to achieve your desired shade of red. Start by dabbing on one-to-two layers allowing time to dry between to create a natural flush. Continue layering if you want to go darker. Apply a light lip gloss on top to finish.
Maybelline XXL mascara with primer: Apply the primer side first and allow it to dry a few seconds before applying the mascara. This product will make your lashes look long and full while staying put all day.
Amazing Matte Powder by Jane Iredale: The rice powder absorbs oils and leaves skin with a matte finish without drying or dulling the complexion.
Casual Make-up Ideas for the Office:
For the office, applying a little extra eye make-up can give you a more polished and professional look within minutes. For ease, purchase an eye shadow set with 3 to 4 complementary colors such as the Smashbox Eye Shadow Trio. Use the light shade of eye shadow all over your lid with a little extra under your brow and in the inner corner of the eye to open up the lid. Next apply the darker shade in the crease and along the lash line to provide contouring. Lastly, use the medium shade between the lash line and the crease as a way to blend the shades together.
Sexy Make-up Ideas for Evening:
Are you going to a dinner party and you want to change the make-up you’ve been wearing all day into an evening look? You want to look sexy and alluring but you don’t have the time to reapply all of your make-up? You don’t need to bring all of your make-up from home to get ready on the go. Instead, try sweeping a dark brown, grey, or soft black shadow right along your upper and lower lash lines. Blend a little into the crease for an extra pop. This will add some mystery to your eye area by giving the illusion of smoky eyes without having to reapply all of your eye make-up. When you’ve finished with your eyes, reapply the Benetint to your lips but add a darker lip gloss over top of it. The Benetint will provide staying power while the lip gloss will add richness for the evening. Finish with the Amazing Matte Powder and you’re ready for a night on the town!
Make-up should work with your lifestyle, not become your lifestyle. Find ways to incorporate make-up into your routine to enhance your appearance and bolster your confidence without taking time away from the things that matter most to you.
By admin | October 25, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
![[000_0004.jpg]](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KMoEA0Kgg1I/SuR222jk5mI/AAAAAAAAA_k/asX0uNXZsv0/s1600/000_0004.jpg)
Yes, yes…I know…I should be doing so many other things (like Japanese shirt sewing) ! But this morning I just felt like sewing something very fun, very quick, and very easy
This is the “Dots T-shirt” from the new 06/09 Ottobre Design issue, style #29. This one was made from a soft medium weight cotton/lycra knit for my 10-yr old niece, Willow.
Of course, I can never just leave a pattern be without adding or changing something…so…
In order to get as much gathering in the center panel as I wanted, I added an inch to the length of the panel as I was cutting it out. Willow has long arms, but the sleeves on this pattern are very, very long…meant to be worn over the hand. After the shirt was sewn, I realized that Willow, as neat as she is…is still a child So to bring the sleeves up I stitched clear elastic onto the seam allowances stretching it slightly as I sewed. To finish the neckline, I sewed a folded band to the neck, then stitched the edge for a loose ruffled look. The hems were also zig-zag stitched, letting the pressure of the foot create soft rippled edges.
I can already envision other ways to make this top…different fabrics…perhaps a woven fabric for the shirred panel, perhaps a sheer knit or lace. Oh I have so many ideas…if only I had as much time !
By admin | October 25, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
For those of you anxious to continue to explore the Japanese Shirt-Making book, I will be writing about it again within a few days.
Recently I’ve had other sewing and business commitments that need attention. But I am anxious to continue…so please bear with me!
By admin | October 19, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
was honored to be asked to write the cover article for the Fall 2009 edition of the American Sewing Guild’s Magazine.
Titled “Shirt Chic”, the article includes my take on Choosing Fabrics, Fine-Tuning Construction, and Adding Designer Details.
I hope that you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed writing
it for you !
By admin | October 19, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
Well…so far, so slow. The good news is that a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern is a shirt pattern. What I mean is that I am very familiar with shirt pattern “parts”…there isn’t much I haven’t seen after sewing hundreds of shirts I’ve either drafted from scratch or used patterns to make.
The slow part is familiarizing myself with the methodology of this Japanese Shirtmaking book with no English translation. Specifically, how these pattern pieces are drafted and how the seam allowance margins are allocated. Because not all the seam allowances are the same width. This is a very good thing, and a sign of sophisticated drafting. It saves time to have all the pieces fit together and not need trimming after the seams are sewn…it also saves fabric, always a good thing. On the other hand, these patterns allocate allowances a bit differently than I do when I hand-draft a pattern. And since I want to give a fair review of these patterns, I’ll cut the pieces their way…I am always open and eager to learn something new. So, This weekend I hope to get the pattern pieces traced and walked…but only after I’ve given my studio a good tidying up.
For the first shirt using these patterns, I’ve chosen a fabric of good but not great quality. One that is good enough to get accurate results (no stretching or shrinking), but one that if it becomes a “give-away”, I won’t have regrets. I try very hard to avoid “sewing regrets”
By admin | October 16, 2009
Submitted by Off the Cuff Style
I’ve had this book for several months, and finally have the time to fully explore it and make a shirt from one of the many patterns that are included as separate traceable sheets. Since I am not yet familiar with the fit of these patterns, my DH Roger will be my victim “fit model”. Of course, after I finish the shirt you will see it here along with a full review of this book.
I may decide to do a step-by step series of blog posts, or at least a few posts about the making of the shirt during the construction process….so stay tuned.
In the meantime, here is the book description from the seller, an Ebay Merchant I recommend,
SIMPLY PRETTY JAPANESE BOOKS.
Paperback: 79 pages
Publisher: Bunka Shuppan Kyoku (August 2006)
Language: Japanese
Book Weight: 425 Grams
19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men’s Shirts for 4 Sizes.
Contents:
The book introduces 19 styles of variety kinds of men’s shirts
Total: 19 Full-Scaled Patterns of Men’s Shirts for 4 Sizes.Paperback: 79 pages
Size Reference:
The book come with the full-scaled patterns for 4 Sizes:
SMALL (Nude): Chest 90 cm, Waist 78cm, Height 155-165 CM.
MEDIUM (Nude): Chest 92 cm, Waist 80cm, Height 165-175 CM.
LARGE (Nude): Chest 94 cm, Waist 84cm, Height 175-185 CM.
EXTRA LARGE (Nude): Chest 98 cm, Waist 86cm, Height 185-195 CM.
This book certainly seems to have it all, including several collar and cuff styles..and a whole lot more! Here are a couple of pics of the inside pages….
~ Click photos to enlarge, then click browser “back” button to return to this page ~
By Fashion Expert | October 12, 2009
We got the insider scoop on the hottest boots for women this winter. Don’t be left out in the cold by wearing last years outdated style. Every year fall/winter boots enter out lives making the cold weather a little more bearable one step at a time. As a personal stylist I create individual style for people that want to upgrade their image. After vising many stores, showrooms, boutiques and private collections I can safely say, “real women wear heels,” and stand by my verdict. Get booty for fall and make sure you choose a pair that will match your personality and lifestyle. Here are some elegant, trendy, career and casual styles to help guide you in the right direction!
By admin | October 7, 2009
Submitted by Fashion Week News Blog
Lindsay Lohan burst into tears during the Paris Fashion Week runway show for Emanuel Ungaro, the fashion house for which she was a design consultant this past season. The actress-turned-fashion designer walked the runway with Spanish designer Estrella Archs, the latest head designer hired by Emanuel Ungaro, at the end of the show for her new collection and was obviously overwhelmed. Backstage the actress called her collaboration with Emanuel Ungaro, “the hardest thing I’ve ever done.”
The post-show applause was little more than a polite courtesy, as many audience members were left aghast at the sight of the sloppy and seemingly unfinished designs, as well as the glimpse of sequined pasties covering models’ breasts as the strutted the runway in blazers which would flap open — revealing nothing underneath.
“The reviews are in for the actress Lindsay Lohan’s controversial turn as a hired muse for the house of Emanuel Ungaro, and let’s just say her arrival was greeted by critics as if a McDonald’s fry cook had been installed as the chef of a three-star Michelin restaurant,” wrote the NY Times’ Eric Wilson.
And later: “Ungaro’s latest maneuver was at least effective in drawing a heavy-hitting audience, as the editors in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, In Style and Elle and buyers from Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf Goodman all attended. But they scrambled for the exits as soon as the show ended, with little applause as Ms. Lohan and Ms. Archs took a bow together on the runway. One retail chief said he had asked for a ticket only because he thought the show would be a spectacle. Another said he would not buy the line, but declined to identify himself ‘because I don’t want my name associated with that train wreck.’”
Hint magazine called the collection “pinky but not panky, and honestly not good enough to be part of the official Paris calendar.” Furthermore, Lohan apparently went shopping the day before the Ungaro runway show and then handed the bill over to Ungaro to be paid. “And then, after a hard day of shopping, she had a wild night and canceled an interview with Suzy Menkes. [Does] one refuse an audience with the pope because of a hangover? She did.”
By academyfashion | October 7, 2009
Take a quick look through your closet, and you’ll surely find clothes that you haven’t worn in 10 years. What were you thinking when you bought all that out-of-date clothing? Chances are you saw someone wearing them in a fashion magazine, thought they looked good, bought them and wore them two times before they went out of style. Resist being swayed by current trends and instead stock your wardrobe with timeless fashion pieces that you’ll wear for years to come.
The most timeless fashions are most often the simplest. Black and white, for example, never go out of style. Also, if you have a good selection of monochromatic colors, you can mix, match and layer them to keep your wardrobe looking fresh without having to purchase a new outfit every week.
Keep a good base of simple clothing styles with few embellishments and you’ll be able to wear them with stylish accessories. These include plain t-shirts, jeans and khakis. Keep a good stock of these simple clothes and you can spice up your outfit with bolder accessories and shoes. This is much simpler and cheaper than buying the latest trend every week.
Also, remember that a good fit never goes out of style. While it should go without saying that you should buy clothing that fits, many people buy clothes for the figure they hope to be instead of the figure they have. When in doubt, you should actually buy clothes a little big instead of a little small; it is much easier to “take in” a garment that to let it out. If you take the extra time to find clothing that complements your figure, you’ll feel comfortable wearing it over and over again.
You may also need to spend a few extra dollars on clothes if you want them to truly be timeless. If you are going to wear clothes for years to come, they need to be able to withstand wear and tear. Don’t bother spending a lot of money on trendy items that you’ll only wear a couple times. Instead, invest in timeless fashions that will save you money in the long run.
One handy tip for finding timeless styles is to look through an old-fashioned magazine. While current fashion magazines showcase styles that will be outdated within months, old fashion magazines can show you what was popular years ago. If something was in style 20 years ago, chances are, it won’t be going anywhere within the next five.
Remember, timeless fashion doesn’t have to be boring. Stock your wardrobe with simple, high-quality clothes that fit well and you will eliminate the “what was I thinking” pieces from your closet.
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